Discovering more from your passion

Surfing for me is one of my passions and a great way for me to have fun, relax and enjoy the ocean. It is also a challenge and its been fun to push my comfort zone at my own pace.  I love the anticipation of riding a wave, the camaraderie of other surfers and, of course, the riding of the wave.  Growing up in the US Midwest there was not much chance to surf, so it wasn’t until I started spending time away from some of the Breckenridge winters that I began to surf.  It has to be one of the hardest sports to learn as there are many different phases to surfing. However, once I glided along my first wave, I was hooked.

It’s also a sport where I’m continually learning and progressing, like life.  It’s a good thing this sport is on water for the number of times I have fallen!  Surfing is definitely one of those sports that has a correlation in life for me in that when I “fall” there is always an opportunity for growth!  My challenging times in life have definitely been where I have learned some of my best lessons, though it sure didn’t feel like it at the time!  Like surfing,  falling with some awareness gives me some information that I can use to adjust or correct for the next wave……I was too far forward on my board, my timing getting on the wave was off, my turn on the wave was too slow, ect. I made this surf video mostly for me to have a record of my surf progress.  However, I thought you might like to see my passion in action and also see that though I have come a long way in the last few years, I’m still falling and getting back up again!

“Everyone shines bright when riding high on the crest of a wave, it’s when things go wrong and we wipe out that we learn the most gaining courage and real strength along the way.”




2 Replies to “Discovering more from your passion”

  1. Ive been surfing for 2 years now alosmt everyday with the exception of deployments and have found that the waves that you paddle into the most determine what you grow accoustomed to and or comfortable with, if you only ride 3-4 and call it a day at 4-8 you will never get used to the larger sets I rode 2-4 for a long time and would cringe at bigger waves until i forced myself to paddle on them, initially ill admit it was spooky droping in and i got rolled up and crushed a few times but now that i have subjected myself to the size i have gotten used to, it i still prefer 3-5 but overhead no longer sends me home.

    1. Yeah, I have have that growth in comfort with bigger waves over the last year or so. Funny, for me, I think being on a paddle board helped me get into bigger waves. I have a bit more confidence as I can see the bigger sets faster and get out their/others way easier. Anyway, thanks for sharing and sounds like your in the military, so thanks for keeping those waves free!

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